Review

Introducing The Outlaw DE All Stainless Safety Razor

Launching Alpha Outlaw, a razor design collaboration between Alpha and Executive Shaving. I have an expected delivery date of mid-February for the first 100 Alpha razors – these are offered at a very special price.

Link HERE: https://mailchi.mp/d424bb7f6cd7/alpha-outlaw-stainless-steel-safety-razor

Outlaw is a close shaving razor but not as close as the Muhle R41. It is definitely a step up in closeness compared to the ever popular Muhle and Jagger R89 and the Merkur 34C. Most shavers will get a lovely close shave with only two passes. I have two-passed my shaves since I got the first production Outlaw in my hands 2 weeks ago and it gives close, irritation free, performance. I used Feather & Supernova and both blades gave me trouble and irritation free shaves. Two passes and a little touch up and I was done.

This DE razor has been a long time in the making and has had me tearing my hair out with the drawings and prototypes but now we are ready to launch. Orders are in at the machine shop and I have a tentative delivery of mid-Febuary.

I am inviting pre-orders on this razor on a first come first served basis.

Outlaw will come with a choice of two handles and an optional polished stainless steel Bullet Stand.

By now, the Pre-launch interest has been very positive. Pre-order Outlaw now

Cologne Review: Geo F. Trumper – Havana

December 2019: Geo F. Trumper announces its latest addition to its colognes range: Havana.

January 2020: your Italian reviewer, Robykeys82, goes to London with wifey and friends.

Given these initial conditions, the reader must answer the following question: did your reviewer miss the chance to grab a bottle of Havana?

If you answered “Yes”, probably you’re not interested in this article and can skip it. Otherwise, if you gave the correct answer, I suppose you’re curious about this new fragrance, which sounds interesting just reading the description:

This intoxicating fragrance has been formulated to evoke the swaying and rustling of Cuba’s one hundred different species of palm trees.

With layers of pink pepper, grapefruit, white mariposa, cinnamon, a dash of paprika, and a hint of vetiver; all of which enhances this exquisitely strong modern and vibrant cologne.

As I approached the 1 Duke of York Street shop, part of me almost wished to find it meh and save 55£. Needless to say, that was not the case. As soon as the haughty shop assistant sprayed it onto a sample paper, I knew I’d end spending those 55£.

So, is this stuff any good? The answer is: yes, it is really good!!!

  • Presentation: classic Geo F. Trumper’s, which means classy and awesome, a real pleasure to see. The cologne label art consists of a palm branch which spans from left to right. Simple but effective!
  • Packaging: the classic Trumper’s 50ml bottle with atomiser. Works well.
  • Scent: the main reason we buy a cologne, isn’t it? My relationship with Trumper’s colognes is a love-it-or-hate-it. I love their Eucris, Spanish Leather and Lime (although this one lasts about 20 minutes and then it’s gone), while I don’t care for some of their other offerings (Skye, Bay Rum and their Sandalwood, despite it being their signature scent). I have to say that I was surprised by how classy and good Havana is. The layers mentioned in the description provided by Trumper’s  all blend perfectly together, giving an overall sense of a top-class product. I can detect the grapefruit, the cinnamon, the vetiver and the pink pepper for sure. Not declared by the House, the overall note reminds me of a hint of cocoa. What struck me the most is that, differently from what happens with other Trumper’s scents, this one is at the same time light and with a great persistence. Eucris, for example, is a very strong masculine scent, as well as Spanish Leather. Havana is subtler, relying on the strong interplay between its various components. I think the main goal declared by the producer (i.e. to evoke the swaying and rustling of Cuba’s one hundred different species of palm trees ) has been met! Don’t expect this cologne to smell like rum and cigars. Instead, expect a journey to a distant and exotic land, where the main scent is the one of unspoiled Nature
  • Persistence: another plus of Havana is its persistence. I can detect it on my skin after 8 hours of work (plus 1 of commuting).
  • Price: 55£. Not cheap, but worth it.

Overall, I’d assign a 9/10 to this new fragrance by one of the most iconic UK’s perfumers. Highly recommended!

A touch of Italy

What a great day for a shave, what a great scent that captures “summer”, and the essence of Italy. Bergamotto di Calabria is a wonderful citrus scent with underlying florals and white musk in the base note. The lather like all of the offerings from Extrò made by Donato Ciniello are very easy to dial in, and have both great cushion and glide. I used my New Forest “Tubby 2” Brush which is an all around great face lathering brush with gel tipped Silvertip badger 🦡. The Tubby 2 is a beast of a lathering brush, pretty even in loft and handle (which is quite large in diameter). Unfortunately these brushes were discontinued back in appx. 2015-16. I’m very blessed to have been able to get a few of these artisan brushes.

As an overall statement and a minimal review, I’ll finish with just saying the small pleasures in life are embodied in this shave. I also need to thank Jeff Conrad as well for his generosity and love for wet shaving. Shave on my friends !

A blast from the past

Today’s shave was very enjoyable ! I went with a floral fougère today, made a few years back; from none other than Soap Commander “Renewal”.Being this soap has a few years on it the bouquet has changed a little bit, in my opinion I like it now. The reason being is the bottom notes of oak moss and Lavender are more prominent, and the “floral” scents are present, but they do not overpower the “fougère” base. This is not a review as much as a revisit of a great LE soap. I felt that the lather was exceptional, as all of Soap Commander’s products are in this department. Totally lush, protective, purely slick, and not a worry at all anywhere during the 3 pass shave that led to a superb shave. As they say sometimes things get better with age, and “Renewal” has aged very nicely indeed.

Shave on my friends, and have a great weekend !

Razor: Merkur Progress adjustable (4)

Blade: BIC Chrome Platinum (1)

Brush: Omega Pura Setolla Ovangkol wood

Soap: Soap Commander “Renewal”

Post Shave: Thayer’s Lavender Witch Hazel & Soap Commander “Renewal” balm

Fragrance: JPG “Le Male”

Petal Pushing like New!

As I look through my shave gear for the days start, I’m drawn to a familiar scent unidimensional and soft. Long before PAA we had Petal Pushers Fancies Run by Fran Towle and Douglas Smythe. I still have a bit of that Petal Pushers Fancies “Sandalwood”; today I am going to use it ! I still feel it’s one of the best Sandalwood scents made by artisan hands. So I grab my WSP 2-band Monarch , start soaking my brush, and anxiously wait for what I knew would be a great shave.

WSP 2-band Superfine Monarch

While I am on this line of thought, I said to myself, why not keep everything uniform, and most of all enjoyable. So I grab my Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements Prismatic which is a modern take on the vintage Kirby razor made by Leresche. I absolutely love this razors performance. The angle of the blade even while fully tightened, leaves a true open blade experience, while the continuous solid guard bar is a rest or, a pivot to find the proper angle of attack. This razor also has perpendicular grooves on the top cap as all Kirby vintage razor have, that serve either as an indicator of proper angle, as all lather and hair will be gathered if the angle is correct; if you leave behind lather, and it smears around that indicates the blade is at the incorrect angle. I also find it helps those of us who “buff” their shave, as it moves the lather quite effectively. I must also mention as well the PAA DOC or, Double open comb. I did not use this today, but for those who really love to buff their shaves, that is your razor of choice. Both of these razors do not have any equal and are only available from Phoenix Artisan

The PAA Prismatic

The PAA DOC

The shave was finished with what is possibly my favorite Sandalwood aftershave lotion by Fine Accoutrements “Santal Absolut. This is a replica of the original “Art of Shaving” Sandalwood which is not only an amazing scent, but can be used as an all day fragrance. The lotion screams that you love Sandalwood, and has no apologies in its performance.

Fine “Santal Absolut”

What can I say it was so enjoyable to use everything I’ve written about. If all shaves could be like this I’d be in Wet Shaving Heaven. I hope everyone has had a great weekend, and as always shave on.

What is your Shaving Heaven ? Be sure to leave a comment below.

SOTD: May 6th, 2019

What an awesome shave today ! I absolutely love Extrò products. Today I used the famous “Pirata”. Pirata is a pretty complex aroma that opens very green with notes of Rose and Bergamot but leads into a more spice like aroma with hints of light wood.

The Third-Issard 5/8 Spartacus is a no hassle great everyday shaver. I really like their semi-new C135 steel as it takes, and holds an edge like a champ. Theirs-Issard for me is the best straights before you get into custom and artisan made blades. This is just my opinion, i have many other shelf brands that are also great straight razors.

Lastly the 2016 Wet Shaver Review Aluminati by EnvyShave just kills most other brushes. With a great Silvertip Badger knot that holds ample water and lather. Combine that with the ergonomic handle and laser etching, it’s a treat to use every time. For those that also have it, you know exactly what I mean.

So May 6th has turned out to be another great shave both in a fulfilled type of way as well as simply a BBS with some of my favorite hardware and software.

Happy shaves my friends !

https://www.extrocosmesi.it

https://shavenation.com/products/thiers-issard-spartacus-straight-razor-6-8-blade-ebony-handle

http://envyshave.com

Enjoy these links, there are lots of great gear on all these links.

Jayaruh Brushes and how to get one!!

Click HERE to adopt a Jayaruh Brush

I am still in Mexico on a business trip and it is a national holiday today – the birthday of Benito Juárez – it is not time for a history lesson so if you want to know more then follow the link.

The line up:

  • Soap – Crows Nest Murky Waters
  • Razor – Merkur Futur
  • Brush – Jayaruh #215

Today’s shave was nice apart from me cutting myself again… but that is not the point of the post. The lather was super, the bowl was great and the blade cut me – shave over!! The point of this post is to introduce to a wider audience the brushes made by Jim Roe, otherwise known as Jayaruh on The Shave Den forum.

I came across Jayaruh by chance. You know that in forums people have signatures and some of them have clubs – ie sub-groupings of like minded people who have the same taste in brushes, or soaps or whatever – for example The Chub Club. I began to notice a few people had one called the Jayaruh Owners Club – intrigued, I started to look up this mysterious Jayaruh. It seems his brushes were sought after. I MUST have one and become a member I thought… so what I did was a bit naughty. I found Jayaruh and contacted Jim in a PM. I asked him about his brushes, I wanted a Rubberset 400 style if possible, with a boar knot. He had just the brush – Jararuh #215. So behold, JR #215 fitted with a lovely Omega 10098 boar knot. Tt is beautifully turned by hand in some exotic wood [Bocote] or other and an aluminium ferrule is threaded on to the handle. The boar knot is aces.

I did not pay for my brush – I swapped him for an Alpha T-400!! – he’s happy, I’m happy!!

If you don’t have a Jayaruh brush then you need one. Visit his blog at THIS SPOT and contact him about “adopting” one of his brushes. There is even a worldwide Google Map HERE to show you where the brushes are currently living!! You might see mine in Hong Kong has a special icon – because I made the map for him and showed him how to update it dynamically

Jim is a great guy and an easy bloke to deal with – come on, what are you waiting for – lets get a Jayaruh brush on every continent!!

 

Here are the rest of the shave pics from today

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

 

Review: Extrò Felce Biancospino

Sit back, and enjoy as this review has been a long time in the making, but what’s great is I have had an easy 6 months using the product. To start off this review we need to take a journey to a short ride from Turin, Italy to the Extrò shop to meet Donato. Donato Ciniello is the owner operator owner of Extròcosmesi, and easily one of the best men I’ve had the pleasure to know. Extrò makes everything from Shaving soaps to EDT, Refreshing eucalyptus splashes, as well as promoting other blade smiths, and artisans within his storefront. The great news is Donato will ship anywhere in the world for amazing rates, and very fast shipping. From Italy to me here in New York, USA takes about a week to 10 days. That’s huge ! Great prices and fast shipping 👍🏽👍🏽 that’s a win. Hopefully that is a good back ground on Donato and Extrò so let’s get onto the product

Felce Biancospino

Fragrance– for those of us that are blessed enough to speak Italian this translates into Fern Hawthorn. I find that it has an equal amount of each fragrance, nothing overpowering the other. They work symbiotically together to produce a beautiful bouquet of what I would call an aged forest, full of greens as well as fragrant trees and bushes. Their is zero flaw in the fragrance. Over the past 6+ months it has been stable and consistent with no unexpected spots.

Lather– Years ago we were confined by tallow shave soaps in the Wet Shaving community. Donato has been ahead of the pack for years using different vegan oils and bases. This particular Crema da Barba uses Shea Butter which is known for the post shave smoothness associated with Shea. This would be considered the quintessential Italian softer Croap or, somewhere between a cream, and a hard soap. I found an easy 30-45 second loading led to ample lather for equal more than 3 passes. This will be factored by your water being hard or, soft. If it’s any indicator I have hard water which in theory should be a negative, gives me zero problems. I will say though this soap does prefer colder to warm water. I’ve used my scuttle many times, but I temper the water to be enjoyable, but still create ample thick and slick fragrant lather.

Post Shave– As I have said above the main factor in the post shave is the Shea Butter Donato uses. People have used Shea for as long as smooth skin has been preferred (a really long time). I use the matching aftershave as a layering, but the true softness comes from the soap !

Conclusion- Easily put this is one of my favorite soaps to use. I prefer the earthy Fern and Hawthorn fragrance. It’s very natural in scent, and very protective. Felce Biancospino has the added benefit of containing Shea which gives a natural soft post shave feel. When combined with the aftershave you have a beautifully layered shave that’s fragrance lasts for quite sometime depending on your skins individual properties. There are very few soaps or, brands that equal the mastery of Donato Ciniello so, when you get a moment check out his website, and you heard it here on WSR that this is a solid purchase from a great European Artisan.

https://www.extrocosmesi.it

Facebook:

https://m.facebook.com/pages/category/Shopping—Retail/Extrocosmesiit-1727013654268658/

Soap: Extrò Felce Biancospino

Brush: Alpha Brush & Shaving co. T-400 Silver tip badger

Razor: Vintage Gillette President

Blade: Personna Med Prep

Aftershave: Felce Biancospino

Scuttle & Scotch Porter beard balm

SOTD 7th December 2018 & Man Of Siam Thai Ginger Zest Soap Review

Hi – you know how it is when you travel, especially as I do a lot, and find yourself in a shaving wilderness – scouring the pharmacies and stores in the vain hope that you might, just might, find something other than Wilkinson Sword or those terrible Japanese and Korean brands of shave gel? Well I found myself in Thailand and as I do I started my quest for shave products – local stores – nada. Pharmacies – nada. Not even a pack of razor blades only the same old dull disposables. So – back to the hotel and onto Google – the usual searches for soap, razors and so on. I googled “Shaving Soap Thailand” and about 5th from the top a result catches my eye: Man Of Siam – I quickly go to the site and note that they have shaving soap made in THAILAND – wow!! I am here for another 4 days so I quickly email the site and get a response from Jack, the site owner (strange name Thai bloke eh?…Actually, the He is a She named Nittaya…) that they have stocked out on the Thai Ginger Zest but they do have the other soap Cadwgawn . I quickly do a deal with Nittaya to buy both soaps and have them shipped to my home in Hong Kong once they are BOTH back in stock. . So – it was with baited breath that I received them this week. Safely packed and shipped all the way from Thailand. I wanted to try them both but opted for the first one I noticed, the Thai Ginger Zest. My other shave line up was:

  • Rigarazor 8/8 near wedge
  • Van Yulay Black Bowl
  • T-400 brush with the old faithful 24mm silver tip head
  • Proraso preshave cream

Prepped with the proraso and bloomed the soap a little – it is quite a hard soap definitely not a cream. Maybe what they are calling a ‘croap’. Prep over, razor stropped and I am ready. I swirl the brush in the soap for about 40 seconds to load the tips then get down to lathering up. Wow – the lather is easy to make (soft water in my place but Nittaya tells me that hard water is okay too). Within 30-40 seconds I have a nice bowl full of delicious lather. I lather up and its a winner – the fragrance is not overpowering, nice ginger zing with a citrus grapefruit background note. First pass is WTG and is so close that I decide to do a second ATG and then a third ATG. I am sat here with a nice fragrance doing this review. All in all the soap is a winner and I can’t wait to try out the Cadwgawn.

Asia, where I live, is a nightmare for wet shavers who like quality products an we have to rely on Amazon and eBay or those trip to the US or UK where we can buy stuff from real shops! Man Of Siam is a welcome oasis in the desert and I will be back!! Follow the link and see for yourself Nittaya’s range of quality shaving gear from Muhle and others as well as these superb Thai made, all natural ingredient, soaps.

 

LINK: Man Of Siam

 

The Pro Proraso Brush

Today was a simple, but extremely enjoyable shave. I’ve used Trufitt & Hill products many times, but not with a very awesome, and super affordable brush; the Omega Pro Pros aka, the Omega Proraso Boar 🐗 which is the brother to the #48 professional, but with more backbone, and a lower loft. This brush happens to be part of Omega’s professional lineup. The handle whilst being thermo plastic has a great hand feel which is fairly large in circumference, as well as a nice loft, and damned if this brush isn’t filled to the brim with dense natural boar hair.

I always soak any brush for 3-5 minutes for the hair to absorb as much water as possible, and the follicle to expand as much as possible; making it softer, and more likely to splay, and really pick up and whip up a substantial lather.

The dimensions are IMO very nice coming in at,

Height : 133 mm 

Loft : 65 mm 

Base : 64 mm 

Knot : 28 mm

Making the Proraso Professional fairly balanced between loft and handle, though the handle is full in hand, and that fully stuffed 28mm knot is dense, and full of backbone. After about a dozen or, so shaves you’ll notice the break in and will load the hardest French tripple milled soaps with ease.

The rest of my shave went without a hitch. I appreciate you taking a moment to look at this short review of a top notch brush, at a $10-15 price point. Keep smooth my friends.

  • Pre: hot shower with Musgo oakmoss soap
  • Prep: Proraso White
  • Soap: Truefitt & Hill Trafalgar
  • Razor: Fatip Nero
  • Blade: Bolzano (1)
  • Brush: Omega Proraso Professional
  • Aftershave: Pinaud Gents Gin
  • Lotion: Trufitt & Hill Trafalgar Balm
  • Fragrance: Burberry Brit