Super-Lather

SOTD 8th/Jan/2018 and Review of Martin De Candre Fougere

Hi – a revisit of a soap I have had for a while and only ever use on special occasions – the first working Monday after Christmas is pretty special no?

The line up:-

A couple of observation on what was a great shave – the Drew Dick did it’s work very well but there is a story there… I forgot to strop. So I started shaving, only the third time with this razor and it is tugging and painful – whoa!!! Then I realized I had forgotten to strop!! I normally strop 25/25 linen/leather before every shave and naively thought it was just part of the ritual… now I know differently. I stopped the shave and stropped – phew back to normal!!

The soap – essence of a nice forest clearing, ferns, green cut leaves and dew on the grass – that sort of smell you never get sick of. I love it. This is a hard soap and my technique is to scoop a bit out of the jar, it is a nice GLASS jar, and put it into my bow to bloom with some warm water. I add my brush to the mix and let them soak. The soap lathers easily but it is thirsty – a nice slick and fragrant shiny lather. Superb.

The Brush – a Shave Nation big Blue, and big it is weighing in at over 7oz. The knot is superb and yes those are gel tips. The handle is matt finished aluminium and anodised blue. It is grippy even when wet due to the sand blasted finish and the finger notch in just the right place.

Now back to the soap – it performed superbly and I was left with a nice hydrated skin and a great scent all day. I think MdC really nailed what is meant by fougere – better than B&M Reserve Fern in my opinion. Is it worth the money? In my opinion yes it is. The soap is hard aI mean HARD and will last a long long time. I use about a “almonds” worth for each shave so at this rate and given my rotation it will be years before the MdC wears out.

SOTD: May 15th, 2015 “Refreshed”

Simply a great shave, nothing fancy at all, but I was proud of this shave ! It was unique, special and memorable for a few reasons.

  
How many of us by things…. Anything, it does not even need be shaving related, and it sits ? “It was a good idea when I bought it” ! Well I bought a pretty full hone set,  going from 220 DMT’s and Norton 220k/1000k  to flatting stones and 1k-2k 4K/8k and finishing stones made by Norton and Shapton, and from Naniwa 12k as well as chromium oxides and Diamond sprays which are equal to about 30k ! I never used them; there was really just no need until now ! The wanna be razor doctor was in the house. 

  
So I prayed a LOT ! As I did not want to ruin my blade, but wanted to be self sufficient, I easily could have sent my razors to Lynn Abrams or Don Addleman, and slept easily, but how do I become a better shaver by doing that ? I don’t. So I watched a few of Lynn’s video’s and the moment of truth came….. And guess what ? The world did not end and actually it worked ! My razor felt like it was brand new again to the point I did not even feel the blade ! I had to check the lather for stubble or, I wouldn’t have believed it was shaving. I had no idea how dull the blade was until I sharpened it, so guess what ? What was originally a scary process; became three razors doing a simple 12K and 30K refresh on synthetic stones ! I was proud; what is it 20 razors and I become a Honemeister ? LOL !  

  

  
  
I have a ways to go, and I’m happy to go slow and enjoy the learning process ! I may pick up some “project razors” to learn to reset a bevel doing the circle method, learn to double bevel, and run pyramids all the way trough finishing the razor like I did here. Learning and being self sufficient is all part of the game, so shave on, don’t be afraid it’s only a razor; just do your homework first. Shave on folks and happy Friday- Aaron

  • Pre: Clarisonic Aria normal brush and hydro cleanser 
  • Prep: Hot shower and Nivea face wash
  • Super-Lather: Cella & GFT Almond
  • Brush: Simpsons Duke 3 in best badger
  • Razor: Ralf Aust 5/8 in faux ebony scales
  • Lather: Scuttle
  • Moustache: handlebar
  • Wax & Pomade: Pinaud Black & Reuzel Red
  • Post Shave: Cold water rinse & cold towels
  • After shave: Pinaud Classic Vanilla
  • Balm: RazoRock R160

SOTD/Trial: October 11th, 2014 ” Almond Cavendish Delight”

 

What happens when you mix a great classic British soap house’s cream and an American Artisans soap ? Some really amazing stuff ! I know we call these Shaves of the day, but as of late I have been trying to push the envelope trying new combinations, and today was one of those days. Now I wasn’t sky diving or, going face first down the Flume; we are talking about super-lathering again, but to me this is just as exciting as this may be a combo you may want to try, it is that good !

Today I decided to use my Ikon modular OSS mounted on the 316L stainless steel bulldog handle that came with the open comb head. Recently a member of the WSR had asked about the OSS head, and I wanted to reply, but for once I did not know exactly how to reply. Traditionally I would say for multiple passes the open comb is great initially for the reduction pass followed by the closed comb for the remainder. Today I would not have said that. I did 100% on the closed comb side. I did not need a super aggressive shave so I stayed to the one side . I did not find this to be a hindrance at all I found that I could get about 3 passes between rinsing, and it did not to my internal clock extend the shave at all. I to be honest found the Ikon to be quiet pleasurable to use. I will say though with a heavier growth than I had today I would have started on the Open Comb side. I paired the Ikon with the Voskhod now on use 9 !! not a drop of a problem, I average 10 shaves, but we are going to see if we can shoot for 12 just out of again a “trial”.

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now this is where some real magical stuff happened ! It came to me last night while just thinking about certain scents that would compliment each other. This was a result of a great Q&A with Frances from Petal Pushers Fancies who made me think a bit about how scents for soaps are made. The jist of what was said was a lot of bad soaps happened before the good soap was finally made…. in other words trial and error. Now I do not have the patience Frances has, but I do have a huge soap and cream den ! So while I was up thinking it came to me I am focusing on Geo F. Trumpers “Almond” and I thought “I wonder how a combination of GFT “Almond” and Synergy “Cavendish” would be ? So long story short it happened today. All I can say is I cannot believe how perfect this super lather was ! GFT “Almond” is a strongly scented and sweeter almond scent and “Cavendish” is also a strongly scented soap. Neither of which dominated the other nor, did it feel like there was a struggle for scent dominance. The lather had the best of both the cream, and the soap; super slick, massive cushion, and unique and smooth in aroma that stayed throughout and even after the shave. I made the magic happen with my Semogue 1305 which is my traditional “Cavendish” brush ! Great combination that I cannot recommend highly enough, just remember to use a sweet almond like GFT not a bitter one like Cella … I’m not sure about that one.

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To end this great shave full of “trials” why would I end any differently ? I did the classic cold water rinse, and Shavex alum rub. I had zero irritation and great feedback. This really was a great shave. I then moved over to a more traditional toner and used the HTGAM alcohol free “Cavendish” after shave, but after drying I mixed a homemade Corn Huskers lotion and Almond essential oil mixture with the HTGAM “Cavendish” lotion and it made again a really great aroma where both the almond and the Cavendish scent stood out wonderfully. The mixture left my face silky smooth feeling and ultra moisturized. Now would I go through this effort every time I use Synergy “Cavendish”, but it sure will be a nice treat every so often and now that I know this combination works, it gives me an option I didn’t have yesterday.

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So that ends my SOTD so I learned today that I can just use one side of the Ikon OSS without any problems, that GFT “Almond” and Synergy “Cavendish” make a GREAT super-lather and finally a similar combination of CHL w/ almond EO and HTGAM “Cavendish” lotion also make for an outstanding after shave.

Great shaves everyone and enjoy the weekend ! – Aaron

  • Pre: Hot shower w/ Jack Blacks facial wash
  • Prep: CHL & Almond essential oil
  • Cream: Geo F. Trumpers “Almond”
  • Soap: Synergy “Cavendish”
  • Brush: Semogue 1305 boar
  • Razor: Ikon modular OSS head on 316L stainless bulldog handle
  • Blade: Voskhod (9)
  • Lather type: Apothecary mug
  • Moustache type: natural flow handlebar
  • Wax and Pomade: Brooklyn Grooming “Williamsburg” wax & Old Spice ” Spiffy mixed with Tres Flores Brilliantine
  • Post shave: Cold water rinse, Shavex alum
  • After shave: HTGAM alcohol free “Cavendish” aftershave tonic
  • Lotion: CHL + Almond EO & HTGAM “Cavendish” lotion
  • Deodorant: Petal Pusher fancies “Cavendish”

SOTD: October 6th, 2014 “Menthol Monday”

It’s cold outside, and it’s cold on my face ! This is a scenario where 1 and 1 don’t cancel each other out… actually it makes it even colder. I love the cold as I am as general statement a pretty bodily hot guy as my wife calls me a “heater”.  I wish she meant like Brad Pitt “Hot” but no she means like temperature. So I love these cool shaves even when the thermometer starts to fall.

So let’s keep it simple and relatively straight forward, I Super Lather on Monday’s as well. If you’re not familiar with this term it is when you mix a cream with a soap or, sometimes a croap.  Today I went with Ginger’s Garden “Arctic Mud” which I loaded very heavily, and Proraso green.  I know this combination, and it is slick, fragrant, and cold as ice ! This is a super lather dream combo as you really do get the best of both, in this instance the Ginger’s Garden “Arctic Mud” was the dominant scent.  Together it produced well more lather than needed for my 3 passes, I used my Simpsons X2L “Colonel” and bowl lathered; I almost overflowed the bowl it lathered so well.

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It was an easy choice for my razor as well, I went with my Merkur 37C Slant. There has been a bit of talk about slants on the forum, and I don’t use a slant everyday, but I bet I could; especially this one. The Merkur 37C is very intuitive and has a medium aggressive nature while never being unwieldy. This is a hands down great razor. I paired it with my Voskhod blade now on use number five ! I expect based on others to get in the neighborhood of 10 uses. These Russian Teflon coated blades, at least for me tend to last longer YMMV of course.

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Finishing off was as easy as the ice-cold shave was ! of course I did my cold water rinse, which intensified the cold from the menthol in the lather ! and I used my Shavex alum which I refrigerated over-night. COLD ! Next up was some more cold water a dry down and the famous Osage Rub ! I was on the fence with Snake Bite by Fine, but I have shown Fine a lot of love as of late; it was time for the Osage to shine !  My hands are actually still cold as I type this. I received a very close shave that slants are known for…. this is a good thing, but I get nervous about ingrown at this point and this closeness….. this is like super glide smooth on my face. So I used my Anthony Logistics Ingrown hair treatment, I actually use this fairly often though don’t usually mention it.  Finally while absolutely not labeled as a methylated balm, truth told it says it’s scent-free HAHAHA ! I used a combination of Anthony Logistics balm mixed with Everyman Jacks Signature mint. EMJ is a great, affordable brand that if you haven’t; you really should give a go.

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That was that my friends ! I am solidly frozen as I hope you are too ! I mean that in the nicest of ways 🙂 enjoy the day folks. – Aaron

  • Pre: Hot Shower with HTGAM/RR Lime Menthol pre-shave soap
  • Prep: Proraso Pre shave lotion
  • Croap: Ginger’s Garden “Arctic Mud”
  • Cream: Proraso green
  • Brush: Simpson’s X2L “Colonel”
  • Razor: Merkur 37C slant
  • Blade: Voskhod (5)
  • Lather type: Bowl/Face hybrid
  • Moustache: Double turned down Handlebar curled
  • Wax and Pomade: Firehouse Dark & Layrite Super Hold
  • Post shave: Cold water rinse, frozen Shavex alum
  • After shave: Osage Rub
  • Additional: Anthony Logistics Ingrown hair treatment
  • Balm: A mixture of Everyman Jack’s Signature mint and Anthony Logistics balm

Madame Scodioli Soap & Aftershave Review

What does a bearded lady do during her spare time while traveling with the carnival? Well, she makes shaving soaps, creams, aftershaves and colognes. Riley Fouts, aka Madame Scodioli (the Bearded Lady) has created a unique persona and even more unique products. First, I’ll tell you that I find this scent intoxicatingly exotic and mysterious. Friends, this is among the best I have ever used. This soap scent is unlike anything I have tried thus far. As soon as you open the package the fragrance fills the room with this sweet, yet masculine scent of  cedar, patchouli, saffron and vetyver. The ingredient list didn’t mention whiskey, but I understand Madame Scodioli likes her whiskey and may have added a few drops. I believe I caught some tobacco as well. Needless to say, this is one heck-of-a fragrance! I was home alone during my testing and evaluation. Upon my wife’s arrival, she asked “what smells so good”? I told her it was this new soap and aftershave that I’m reviewing. She said the house smells wonderful and that she loves the fragrance. Therefore, I think your significant other may love this as well.

The Step Right Up Soap
The ‘Step Right Up’ soap is available on Etsy and comes in a square or round puck.  As mentioned, this Glycerin based soap has an amazing fragrance. I was able to create a nice lather, but it took a little time to dial-in on the amount of water to use. The lather was luxurious, fragrant and had a decent slickness to it. A nice shave and will definitely be in my rotation. The scent had nice staying power and was evident throughout the shave. I definitely was sniffing my brush throughout the shave and ended up with an exceptional experience. By the way, I used my Gillete Red Tip with a Voskhod blade and my new Nathan Clark Silver Tip brush for this review. Now to the aftershave….

Photo Oct 03, 4 49 06 PM

The Aftershave
The ‘Step Right Up’ aftershave is a perfect match to the soap.  The AS comes in a wonderful old time 5.0 oz. amber glass jar with screwtop lid.  Like some of our other favorite vendors, it comes with a useful reducer in the neck for reducing spillage.  It has a woodsy-exotic masculine fragrance that consists of cedar, smoky patchouli, sandalwood, musky saffron and finished with a touch of vetyver. I just love this lotion. It goes on smooth and is just soothing. No sting from alcohol, no alum, just a real nice lotion with an intoxicating fragrance.
The aftershave can be found here:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/203362201/madames-aftershave-select-your-scent

Photo Oct 03, 5 10 40 PM

The Madame Scodioli Scents are as Follows:
Aged Bourbon: Kentucky Single Barrel
Dust Shaker: Mahogany + Sandalwood
Fiji Mermaid: The Briny Deep
Fortunato: Pine, Smoke + Whiskey
Gray Skies: Nag Champa
Hierophant: Sage + Sweetgrass
Laudanum: Tobacco + Black Tea
Sentinel: Leather
Step Right Up: Cedar, Saffron + Vetyver
Timshel: Tobacco + Vanilla
Widdershins: Frankincense + Myrrh

Thank you for taking the time to look at my review. Hope this was helpful.
Peter Charkalis

 

 

September 22nd, 2014 “Menthol Monday”

Ok so I am sick and I have I’m pretty sure told everyone within at least 5 countries I think I’m dying. I do not handle being sick well at all, what I handle even worse though is excuses, and I have been making a lot of them lately, and am man enough to call myself out on the carpet. When I don’t feel well this is just how I get. SOOOO where is the silver lining ? in a few places first off it’s Monday and the beginning of the week….. I have a whole week to change my outlook and secondly it is “Menthol Monday” ! when your sick with the flu or, a head cold what could be better than either a shot of booze or, menthol ? hey it’s one of the ingredients in Vick’s vapor rub. I figured it would help me breathe a bit better, no not really , but I got an awesome shave.

I Super-Lathered Mitchell’s wool fat and Proraso green after applying Proraso pre shave. This unto itself was chilling, not Yeti snot territory yet, but we will get to that soon enough, and using the Omega 63185 badger brush I couldn’t go wrong. I kept the razor fairly simple using my Edwin Jagger De89LBL which while beautiful and shaves wonderful carries such an affordable price tag, really this is a phenomenal shaver as it is priced right and shaves like a dream the key is ? The right blade. I have said this countless times over the years and YMMV I firmly believe a mild shaver paired with a sharper than average blade will be the shave of your life. So I used a Russian Sputnik which are Teflon coated. I love these blades. While on average a 4-5 shave blade they are consistent, sharp, and irritation free.

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After my clean up as I bowl lathered I pampered myself a little. I am sick after all. I took a little extra time rubbing the cold water on my face which in turn made the menthol go into over drive really chilling my face, I then used my broken Shavex block…. I am using the jagged edges as I am trying to round them off…. the block is and will not be wasted. As my friend and Brother Timothy Moore from the Royal order of Wet Shavers and I always said waste not want not. Finally I went for the coldest aftershave I own and I keep it in the fridge. Fine aftershave “Snake Bite”. As I write this an hour later I still feel the menthol and it is stronger now than when I was shaving with the Proraso. Keep in mind I am sick so my skin does feel very sensitive. Finally I closed off the shave with a product I don’t love but it is pretty chilly, Lucky Tiger Menthol Vanishing cream. This cream is pretty good and here is a little tip if you use it add a few drops of water to the cream after rubbing it into your hands. I find otherwise the cream is drying.

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This concluded my WSR “Menthol Monday” ! I hope you enjoyed the read and temporary distraction from your daily grind….I know writing it while not “cure” for the common cold made me feel great to write it as I have been absent for a bit and it made me feel better sharing my day with all of you ! I hope you all had great shaves as well. – Aaron

  • Pre: Hot Shower w/ Clinique facial bar
  • Prep: Proraso Pre shave
  • Soap: Mitchell’s Wool Fat
  • Cream: Proraso green
  • Brush: Omega 63185 black badger
  • Razor: Edwin Jagger De89LBL
  • Blade: Sputnik (1)
  • Lather type: Bowl
  • Moustache: Handlebar
  • Wax and Pomade: Pinaud natural and Suavecito firm
  • Post Shave: Cold water rinse and Shavex alum
  • After shave: Fine “Snake Bite”
  • Balm: Lucky Tiger menthol vanishing cream